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It's pumpkin season and most anticipated time of the year, not least for all the spiced dishes and other hearty meals of autumn. This Rajasthani stir-fry is one I cook often, and the blend of fresh ginger, chili and jaggery lends it a lovely balance of flavour. This layered rice dish, meanwhile, is loaded with whole spices, long-grain rice and clarified butter, which give so much more taste to the layers of grains and produce.

Squash and Mushroom Biryani

A celebration of curry dishes begins around early October, so what better way to celebrate than with a rich, warming, all-in-one-pot layered rice dish? If you like, prepare the vegetable curry element ahead of time and assemble everything on the occasion you want to serve.

Preparation 20 min
Cook 2 hr
Yields 4

For the vegetable curry base
4 tbsp ghee, or use butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, peeled and thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, lengthwise slit
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or substitute with mild paprika
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cubed
300g button mushrooms, trimmed and sliced
400ml vegetable stock, or water
Salt, as needed
2 tbsp chopped coriander, for serving

Rice preparation
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

For the biryani
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, steeped in warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, as accompaniments

Begin by preparing the gravy. Heat the clarified butter in a sizable, heavy-based saucepan on a moderate flame, add the cumin seeds, bay leaves and cloves, and fry for a few seconds. Stir in the sliced onion and cook, stirring often, for 30-35 minutes, until softened. Once onions begin caramelizing, transfer half of them to a plate and set aside (for later use during the assembly).

Add the fresh chilies and ginger strips to the remaining onions, fry for a minute, then mix in the tomato paste, chilli powder, turmeric powder and coriander, and sauté for a short while. Reduce to a gentle flame, blend in the yogurt and simmer for a couple of minutes.

Add the squash and mushroom halves, toss to cover in the spice mixture, then cook for several minutes. Pour in the liquid, and add salt to taste. Heat until boiling, then turn down the temperature, cover and simmer for 18-20 minutes, stirring once halfway to ensure no sticking to the base of the pan. Sprinkle with fresh cilantro, then take off the heat.

Heat the oven to moderately hot temperature. Rinse the rice, then put it in a saucepan with a quart of water and the bay leaves, cardamom and seasoning. Bring to a boil, cook for 10-12 minutes, until partially cooked, then drain.

For assembling the layered dish, put a spoonful of warmed ghee in a casserole pot for which you have a tight-fitting lid. Ladle in one portion the spiced vegetables, then layer with half the cooked grains. Sprinkle half the saffron water, ginger strips, mint, ground cardamom and garam masala, then add the caramelized onions. Layer with the remaining curry mixture, then arrange the remaining rice. Finish with the remaining clarified butter, saffron liquid, ginger, mint, ground cardamom and spice mix.

Cover with baking paper, place lid securely, then cook on the middle shelf of the oven for about fifteen minutes, so the aromas infuse the grains. Take out of the heat, allow to stand, keeping covered, for several minutes, then lift off the lid and serve with yogurt sauce and fresh salad.

Rajasthani Achari Kaddu (Squash with Pickling Spices Stir-Fry)

The Hindi term "achari" describes seasoning a preparation using pickling spices, and the combination includes mustard, fennel seeds, fenugreek seeds, cumin, hing and nigella, but they're not used only in preserved foods. The blend also appears in all manner of curries and sautéed preparations, like this recipe.

Prep 10 min
Cook 30 min
Yields 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
750g squash flesh, or pumpkin, cubed
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, to taste
1 tbsp jaggery, or substitute with brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Place the mustard, fenugreek and fennel seeds in a spice grinder, roughly grind, then set aside. Heat the oil in a spacious skillet or kadhai on a moderate flame. Introduce the crushed spices and the asafoetida, and fry, stirring, for a few seconds. Add the chopped ginger, cook for a short while, then add the squash, chili powder and turmeric, and sauté, stirring, for five minutes more.

Pour a small amount liquid to the pot, salt with seasoning to taste and heat until bubbling. Cover, turn down the heat, and simmer for 20 minutes, mixing midway through. Add the jaggery, breaking up chunks a bit, then add the dried mango, mix thoroughly and present hot with chapatis or naan.