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When curating a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred venues. But, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The honour has made the family totally surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble place achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.